Citizens Bank Park
Philadelphia, Pa
August 10, 2012
St. Louis Cardinals Vs Philadelphia Phillies
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| Harry Kalas' Statue at Citizens Bank Park |
"Swing ... and a long drive, this ball is ... outta here! Home Run..."
Legendary Phillies broadcaster, Harry Kalas
Pre-Game: Philadelphia On Foot and Stomach:
"Do we really have to root for the Phillies?" Ryan asked, while staring out the window at the rain as we crossed the Ben Franklin Bridge into the city of Philadelphia.
"Yes", I told him. "We agreed to root for the home teams, except if we're in Fenway, or if the home team is playing the Yankees."
"But, it's the Phillies", he reiterated.
"You'll get over it. Besides, do you really want to take the chance of an argument and ruining the night?" I asked.
"No, but it's the Phillies", he reminded me...for the third time in the last two minutes.
"Can we discuss this later?" I asked, as we pulled the car into the parking garage behind the Liberty Bell Center.
"I guess", was his response. "We're going to see the Liberty Bell first, right?"
"Absolutely", I told him, as we grabbed an umbrella and headed into the city.
I knew that we would be coming to Philadelphia when we started our "tour". I just didn't know when and lately the summer had been slipping away from us. We had weekends booked and school and fall sports were about to start for the boys, so time was running out. Thankfully my friend Barbara is a Phillies' ticket holder and was not going to be using her seats on a day that worked for us, so we were able to get four great seats from her. Thanks Barb, it was much appreciated.
The next thing I had to do was see exactly what Ryan's ideas for Philly were. He loves history, as I do, so I had a pretty good idea of what he would want to do, but his immediate answer made me laugh.
"CHEESESTEAKS", was all he said.
"There's more to Philly than that", I reminded him.
"Oh, I know, but that's a must. "
"No worries, I'll feed you", I assured my walking bottomless pit. "What else?"
"It's sort of like Boston, with all the history. So let's see the Liberty Bell, the place where they wrote the Declaration of Independence, Ben Franklin's grave and Dinic's for the sliced pork hero", he said.
"Again with the food?", I asked, shaking my head.
"Hey, it's rated one of the best sandwiches in the country. We can't go there and not get it", he said emphatically.
"You'll get fed, I promise", I told him again. "Now, where do you want to go?"
"Let's start with the Liberty Bell", he decided.
We walked out of the parking garage, across the street and over to the Liberty Bell Center.
The Liberty Bell is an iconic symbol of American history and is located on Independence Mall, between Market and Walnut Streets, in the heart of Philadelphia's historical district. The bell was cast in 1752 for the State House (Independence Hall) and was rung to call people to public meetings, to summon worshipers and to announce the ascension of George III to the throne in 1760. Contrary to popular myth, the bell was not rung on July 4, 1776 as there was no public announcement of the Declaration of Independence on that day. However, when the Declaration was read to the public for the first time on July 8, 1776, historians agree it did ring forth at that time, as did other bells around the city.
After Washington's army was defeated at Brandywine in 1777, the Revolutionary capital of Philadelphia fell to the British army. Rather than taking the chance of the city's bells being melted down to help the British cause, the Liberty Bell, along with others throughout the city, were removed and secretly transported to Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. The bell returned to Philadelphia in 1778 after the British departure and was placed in storage because of the poor condition of the State House's steeple, until 1785 when it was again mounted.
No one knows for sure how the bell became cracked, but it appears to have happened in the first half of the Nineteenth Century. By 1846 a thin crack began to affect the bell's sound. It was repaired immediately and rang for George Washington's birthday, but it cracked again soon after and has not been rung since. There has been no plausible explanation as to why it had cracked either time. In the latter half of the century the bell traveled the country as part of America's Centennial Exhibition. It was used as a symbol of our nation's commitment to freedom and democracy and was recognized throughout the world.
"C'mon, I wanna see the bell", Ryan pleaded, practically dragging me down the street.
"I'm coming, I'm coming", I laughed.
When we got to the Liberty Bell Center it was really raining and the line was stretched out a bit.
"We're going to have to wait a bit", I told him.
"That's OK, I'm not hungry yet", he responded.
After waiting in line for about 15 minutes we went inside and saw the history of the bell through plaques, photographs, ornaments and a movie. All in all it takes about a half an hour to walk through, read and watch everything. The far end of the building is where the bell is housed and it overlooks Independence Hall.
"That bell was around during The Revolution?", was all he could get out.
"Pretty cool, hunh?", I asked him.
"It's amazing. Can we get some pictures of it?" he wondered aloud.
"Absolutely", a National Parks' guide told him. "Would you like one of the two of you?'
"Yes, please", Ryan said.
"OK, what now?" I asked as we walked outside.
"Hey, it stopped raining", Ryan replied, ignoring my question for the moment.
"Hungry yet?" I wondered.
"Why do you ask questions you already know the answer to? Can we go to that place that was voted best sandwich in America?" he asked.
"Absolutely", I told him. "Let's head over to the Reading Terminal Market."
"The what?" he wanted to know.
"You know about the sandwich, but not where to get it?"
I couldn't believe my son didn't know something about the food he wanted.
"I know the name of the place to get the sandwich", he responded.
"C'mon, let's go and we'll be meeting someone you haven't seen in a while", I told him.
The Reading Terminal Market is a food emporium, with over 100 different merchants, located on the site of a former train shed at Twelfth and Arch Streets. There are all kinds of meats, ice cream, baked goods, seafood, fresh produce and ethnic foods, as well as fresh produce, groceries, books, and even clothing, in what can only be described as a giant food mall. The wonderful sights and smells assault your senses from the moment you open the door and don't let up until you leave.
Tommy Dinic's is a fourth generation, family owned eatery in the Reading Terminal Market. The family business started as a butcher shop in South Philadelphia by Italian immigrant Gaetano Nicolosi and his sons. By the 1950's Gaetano had passed the business on to the boys, which had become famous throughout the neighborhood for its roast beef and roast pork sandwiches. In the 1970's two of the grandsons, Tommy and Franky, started the sandwich shop at Oregon and Tenth Streets, until they split in the 1980's. Tommy relocated to the Reading Terminal Market and Franky moved to Tenth and Reed Streets. Today the Dinic's in the market is the last of the family owned business and their roast pork sandwich was just voted "Best Sandwich in America" after an exhaustive search by Adam Richman of the "Travel Channel."
We got in line and about five minutes later Trish and John showed up. Trish is originally from our town of Ramsey, but relocated to Philly and now lives and works there, John is her significant other and he is from the Philly area. The line was long but moved quickly, and we were about two minutes from the register when seats at the counter opened up. Needless to say we took them and John wandered off to find himself a cheesesteak pretzel.
We had been told about this sandwich a while ago by a good friend of mine, and former Philly resident, Joe Thomas. "Uncle Joe" had said to Ryan that this slice of heaven on a roll was a must and that we had to do it the traditional way. Sliced roast pork, extra sharp provolone, topped with broccoli rabe and just a bit of pork gravy over everything. You can order the sandwich with spinach, or peppers, but Joe was insistent that it had to be the rabe. So that's what I ordered for Ryan and I to split.
"Holy cow, look at the size of the half", Ryan said incredulously. "It's huge."
I couldn't disagree with him. While the half sandwich was about six inches large, it was overstuffed with pork, cheese and the broccoli.
"Is it too big?" I half jokingly asked him.
"Are you kidding? I'm so hungry, I might be eating yours", he laughed.
I didn't laugh at all since I knew he was capable of doing just what he promised. I dug in immediately.
The sandwich was better than even Joe could describe it. The bun is warm and soft and the pork is sliced, but not too thin, and covered in its own juices. The extra sharp provolone adds a smokey, sharp biting flavor that helps tone down the natural bitterness of the broccoli rabe. The extra gravy over the top was just enough to help melt the cheese in some places and keep it firm in others, so you never know if you're going to get a gooey bite or a "solid" one. Joe, I don't admit this often, but I must this time. You were right and I was wrong. The broccoli rabe was the perfect topping for this sandwich and should never be substituted.
I finished my portion just in time. I looked over at Ryan who had just polished off his half and was looking very annoyed that I had finished mine.
"Well?" I inquired.
"That was fantastic. What else do they have in this place? I think it's time for dessert", he said, while looking around for his next food conquest.
I paid the bill and Trish took us to another corner of the market for dessert.
Ryan couldn't decide what he wanted for dessert, but Trish knew just where to take him. First, we went to the Flying Monkey Bakery, which is famous for whoopie pies, cupcakes and cookies. Ryan decided he was going to try a mint chocolate chip whoopie pie since he had never heard of one and mint is his favorite flavor. This culinary treat lasted all of three bites and was gone before I could even get a taste.
"That was great. Can we order a dozen to take home?" he asked while finishing off the last bite.
"No, and don't talk with your mouth full", I told him.
"I'm in the mood for some ice cream", Trish announced.
"YEAH!!!" came the response from down and to my left.
"Haven't you had enough?" I asked in disbelief.
The look I got told me all I needed to know.
We walked to Bassets Ice Cream at the front of the market, for what were were told was world class ice cream. Trish ordered a mocha cup and Ryan, after giving me his best puppy dog eyes, got a two scoop cup of cookies and cream. Now I have seen big scoops before, but I was in no way prepared for what they considered a scoop. Ryan's eyes rolled back in his head and his smile was as wide as the grand canyon. After insisting on a bite I was hooked, This might just have been the best ice cream that I have ever eaten. Unfortunately, our lunch break had come to an end. John and Trish walked us outside and we said goodbye, but not until after I made her promise to come "home" soon and visit.
"The next time we come down here that place is a must", Ryan insisted.
"You think?" I asked, half kidding.
"Where to now" he wanted to know.
"Well, let's walk to the Betsy Ross House, then Ben Franklin's grave site and we'll finish it off at Independence Hall before we head over to the stadium."
"OK, sounds good to me. What are we eating at the ballpark?" he wondered, not exactly to himself.
"Didn't you have enough?" I asked, wide eyed.
"Just wondering. Let's go," he said with a smile.
The Betsy Ross House is located a fifteen minute walk from the Reading Terminal Market on Arch Street. While historians debate whether she did, or did not, sew the flag for the Continental Army, her house is most certainly a popular attraction. You can take a tour which shows that Ms. Ross made her living as a furniture upholsterer and see her workshop, bedroom, kitchen as well as many family artifacts. The lady of the house is laid to rest in the courtyard beneath her favorite trees.
Just up the street from the Betsy Ross house is the grave site of Benjamin Franklin. It's not widely known, but the Founding Father most associated with Philadelphia, was actually from Boston. Franklin was apprenticed to a printer before he fled Massachusetts to get a new start in Philadelphia. Over the course of his life Franklin was known world wide as an inventor, a diplomat and statesman extraordinaire. He died at the age of 84 in 1790 and his funeral was attended by almost 20,000 people. He is buried at Christ Church Burial Ground on Second Street, and his grave is visited by millions of people from all over the world each year.
After visiting Franklin's grave we headed back to Independence Hall.
"Do you want to take the tour and see where the Declaration was signed?" I asked.
"Sure, if there's time", was Ryan's response.
Unfortunately there wasn't. You can view Independence Hall for free, but must present tickets to take the timed tour. The tickets can be purchased at the visitors' center and the earlier you get there, the better chance you have to pick your tour time.
Even though we couldn't take the tour, we were able to walk around the outside of the building. Luckily, a friendly tour guide took pity on Ryan, who really wanted to go in, and gave him a verbal tour and free roam of the closed off courtyard.
"This place was built to be the State House for Pennsylvania and was the meeting hall for the Second Continental,Congress, except for the years that the British occupied the city. It was here that George Washington was named commander in chief of the army in 1775 and where The Declaration of Independence was signed on July 4, 1776." He told us. "It was also here that the design of the American flag was agreed upon and the Constitution was written. The building looks just as it did in the late Nineteenth Century and is visited many people every year. President Lincoln's body lay in state here, on it's way back to Illinois and the Liberty Bell resided here for many years. The building is owned by the City of Pennsylvania and is a registered historical landmark, protected by the National Parks Department."
"Thanks for the info", Ryan said to the gentleman. "I never knew Philadelphia had this much history in it."
As we walked off to take pictures, I asked him if this was a place he'd like to tour over a whole weekend.
"Could we?", he implored.
"Absolutely. It's sort of like Boston, but closer to home.", I told him
"Sounds like Boston was the start and Philadelphia was next in line for U.S. History during the Revolution.", he decided.
"Pretty much something like that", I told him.
"We should spend a weekend in Boston doing all the historical stuff and then spend the next weekend down here taking the next step. Can we?" he wanted to know.
"Definitely something to consider", I said, knowing full well we would.
Anytime I can do a walking tour of American History, I'll do it and the fact that Ryan shares my love makes it even more enjoyable.
"Come on, we can walk to the car and head over to the stadium, or we can go to the Springsteen exhibit at the National Constitution Center. Your choice", I told him.
"I don't need to see Bruce's jacket, notebooks or anything like that. I'm not a sniffer", he said laughing.
"OK, let's go see some baseball", I told him as we turned the corner and headed to the car.
The Phillies are the oldest, one named, one city franchise in the United States. The team was founded in 1883 and originally called the Quakers, but the name was soon changed to Philadelphias and then shortened to Phillies. By 1890, the team became officially known as the Phillies, which has been their moniker ever since.
In 1887 the team began play in its new home park, The Baker Bowl, though its formal name was National League Park, it was also referred to as Philadelphia Park, or Philadelphia Baseball Grounds. It was located in the North Broad Street, West Huntindon Street, North 15th Street and West Lehigh Street area and was considered a state of the art facility at its time.
The dimensions of the park were; 341 feet to Left Field , 408 to Center, 300 to Right-Center and 280 to Right. It was the right field dimensions that were most notable to The Baker Bowl, due to the configuration of the wall. Boston's Green Monster would eventually stand 37 feet and even that was smaller than the one in the Baker Bowl. Though the Right Field fence was only 280 feet from home plate, the wall stood about 60 feet high and included a wire screen on top. The park was reconfigured in 1895 to add more seats and became the first sports stadium to have a cantilevered design.
With the advent of the American League in 1901, the Phillies lost some of their better players to the cross town team, the Athletics (A's). In the first decade and a half of the new century the Phillies fared poorly, usually finishing in the lower portion of the league. To add insult to injury, in 1903 a portion of The Baker Bowl collapsed, killing 12 people and injuring scores more.
The Phillies won their first pennant in 1915, behind the pitching of Grover Cleveland Alexander and the bat of Gavvy Cravath, who led the N.L. with 24 home runs. The team, however, was beaten in the World Series that year by the Boston Red Sox, four games to one. Pitching star Alexander was gone two years later as owner William Baker refused to grant him a raise and the decline of the ball club was immediate. Between 1918 and 1948, the Phillies had only one season with a winning record (1932), finished next to last seven times, last 17 times and higher than sixth only twice.
In 1930, owner William Baker passed away and left the team to his wife and his secretary, Mae Mallen. Mallen married shoe dealer Gerald Nugent, who eventually became team president, and when Baker's widow died two years later, Nugent retained full control over the team. Nugent badly wanted to build a winning ball club, but finances kept him from being able to do so. The main problem was the cost of operating The Baker Bowl, which was continually in a state of disrepair because of those costs. In fact, things got so bad at times that a flock of sheep was used to keep the grass at a reasonable length and in 1926 the right field grandstand collapsed, which forced the team to play the 1927 season at Shibe park, the home of the A's.
By the late 1930's, Nugent was trying to move the team permanently to Shibe Park. However, the owner of The Baker Bowl steadfastly refused to let the Phillies out of their lease, until the city threatened to condemn the ballpark. So in 1939, the team moved five blocks west, where they would spend the next 31 years.
In 1971, the Phillies moved out of Connie Mack Stadium (Shibe Park) and into the newly built Veterans' Stadium. "The Vet", as it was to be known, was a multipurpose stadium that would house the Phillies and the city's N.F.L. team, the Eagles. The Vet, was located at the northeast section of Broad and Pattison Streets and would hold over 56,000 baseball fans and 62,000 for football. The stadium would host the annual Army/Navy football game, two M.L.B. All Star Games (1976 and 1996), as well as many other sporting events, concerts and civic functions. The playing field was composed of Astroturf from 1971-2000 and Nexturf from 2001-2003, while the dimensions of the baseball field were a symmetrical 330 feet to Left Field, 371 to Left Center, 408 to Center Field, 371 to Right Center and 330 to Right. The Stadium stood until it was vacated after 2002 by the Eagles and 2003 by the Phillies.
The Phillies won the N.L. East in 1980 and beat the Houston Astros in a memorable series that saw four of the five games go to extra innings. In the World Series, the Phils matched up with the Kansas City Royals and took the Series in six games, behind the hitting of Schmidt (the N.L.C.S. and World Series MVP) and Rose and the pitching of Tug McGraw. With the win they became the last of the sixteen teams that comprised M.L.B. from 1901-1960 to win a World Series.
In 2008, the Phils captured the N.L. East crown, thanks in no small part to a late season swoon by the New York Mets. They then beat the Brewers, three games to one, to capture the Division Series and the Dodgers, four games to one, which sent them to the World Series against the upstart Tampa Bay Rays. Philadelphia took the Fall Classic four games to one on the strength of their pitching, led by Cole Hamels (N.L.C.S. and W.S. MVP), to capture the city's second World Series Championship.
We had parked in Lot U, about 500 yards from the stadium, on the western side. The first thing we came across was a statue of Connie Mack.
As we walked around the outside of the park, taking pictures, we came across statues of other famous Phillie players as well. In front of the Third Base Gate there is an immense statue of Phillie Hall of Fame Third baseman, Mike Schmidt.
The final outside statue we came across, was located outside the Left Field Gate. Ryan looked at me, as if to say "Go ahead, you know what I'm going to ask."
Two and a half hours before game time, the only place you are allowed to roam inside the park is Ashburn Alley. This area is behind center field and is named for Phillies' Hall of Fame outfielder Richie Ashburn, who played for the club from 1948-1959 and then was a Phils broadcaster from 1963 until he died in 1997. The name Ashburn Alley came from the area down the third base line in Shibe Park, where Ashburn famously laid down many a bunt that hugged the line and stayed fair. A life sized statue memorializes Ashburn directly behind center field.
The main features inside Ashburn Alley are the Phillies' Memory Lane, Wall of Fame and All Star Walk. Memory Lane is a history of Phillies baseball, from inception until 1993 and does a good job in telling the teams' story through photographs. The All Star Walk, is a tribute to every Phillie player that has participated in the M.L.B. All Star game, since it began in 1933. The Wall of Fame is the Phillies version of Yankee Stadium's Monument Park. It is a collection of bronze plaques, set upon the brick wall, immortalizing the great players throughout Philadelphia baseball history. Some of its members include; Robin Roberts, Connie Mack, Mickey Cochrane, Richie Ashburn, Jimmie Foxx, Lefty Grove, Grover Cleveland Aexander, Steve Carlton, Mike Schmidt, Tug McGraw, Bob Boone, John Kruck, Greg Luzinski, and quite a few others. The setting is classy and the plaques are reminiscent of the ones you would find in Cooperstown. As fate would have it, there would be and induction ceremony before our game, for Mike Lieberthal.
Another fan favorite feature inside Ashburn Alley are the "exposed" bullpens, which are located in the certer field area and are bi-leveled. The Phils have the lower pen, while the away team has the upper. Fans are allowed to heckle as long as they don't get personal, or vulgar.
There are also games, above the right field corner, where children can be entertained, win prizes and blow off steam before heading to their seats for the game. Some of the games include a "wheel of baseball fortune, a run the bases with the Phanatic (the team's long standing mascot), a pitching target game and a video trivia game. Of course, this is what caught Ryan and Ewan's eyes right away.
"Daddy, can we go play while you and Kevin have a beer and sit down?", Ryan inquired.
"I don't really want a beer right now", I teased him.
"Are you feeling OK?", he shot right back.
"I thought you were hungry", I said.
"Food first, games later?", he pleaded.
"Absolutely", I told him. "I know just where we're going."
"You'll get fed, I promise", I told him again. "Now, where do you want to go?"
"Let's start with the Liberty Bell", he decided.
We walked out of the parking garage, across the street and over to the Liberty Bell Center.
The Liberty Bell is an iconic symbol of American history and is located on Independence Mall, between Market and Walnut Streets, in the heart of Philadelphia's historical district. The bell was cast in 1752 for the State House (Independence Hall) and was rung to call people to public meetings, to summon worshipers and to announce the ascension of George III to the throne in 1760. Contrary to popular myth, the bell was not rung on July 4, 1776 as there was no public announcement of the Declaration of Independence on that day. However, when the Declaration was read to the public for the first time on July 8, 1776, historians agree it did ring forth at that time, as did other bells around the city.After Washington's army was defeated at Brandywine in 1777, the Revolutionary capital of Philadelphia fell to the British army. Rather than taking the chance of the city's bells being melted down to help the British cause, the Liberty Bell, along with others throughout the city, were removed and secretly transported to Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. The bell returned to Philadelphia in 1778 after the British departure and was placed in storage because of the poor condition of the State House's steeple, until 1785 when it was again mounted.
No one knows for sure how the bell became cracked, but it appears to have happened in the first half of the Nineteenth Century. By 1846 a thin crack began to affect the bell's sound. It was repaired immediately and rang for George Washington's birthday, but it cracked again soon after and has not been rung since. There has been no plausible explanation as to why it had cracked either time. In the latter half of the century the bell traveled the country as part of America's Centennial Exhibition. It was used as a symbol of our nation's commitment to freedom and democracy and was recognized throughout the world.
In the middle of the Twentieth Century the city of Philadelphia transferred custody of the bell and Independence Hall to the federal government, while still retaining possession. In 1976 the bell was moved out of Independence Hall and across Chestnut Street to the new Liberty Bell Pavilion. It would stay there until 1993 when it was moved again to the Liberty Bell Center, betweenMarket and Arch Streets, where it still sits today.
"C'mon, I wanna see the bell", Ryan pleaded, practically dragging me down the street.
"I'm coming, I'm coming", I laughed.
When we got to the Liberty Bell Center it was really raining and the line was stretched out a bit.
"We're going to have to wait a bit", I told him.
"That's OK, I'm not hungry yet", he responded.
After waiting in line for about 15 minutes we went inside and saw the history of the bell through plaques, photographs, ornaments and a movie. All in all it takes about a half an hour to walk through, read and watch everything. The far end of the building is where the bell is housed and it overlooks Independence Hall.
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| Boys and the Bell |
"That bell was around during The Revolution?", was all he could get out.
"Pretty cool, hunh?", I asked him.
"It's amazing. Can we get some pictures of it?" he wondered aloud.
"Absolutely", a National Parks' guide told him. "Would you like one of the two of you?'
"Yes, please", Ryan said.
"OK, what now?" I asked as we walked outside.
"Hey, it stopped raining", Ryan replied, ignoring my question for the moment.
"Hungry yet?" I wondered.
"Why do you ask questions you already know the answer to? Can we go to that place that was voted best sandwich in America?" he asked.
"Absolutely", I told him. "Let's head over to the Reading Terminal Market."
"The what?" he wanted to know.
"You know about the sandwich, but not where to get it?"
I couldn't believe my son didn't know something about the food he wanted.
"I know the name of the place to get the sandwich", he responded.
"C'mon, let's go and we'll be meeting someone you haven't seen in a while", I told him.
The Reading Terminal Market is a food emporium, with over 100 different merchants, located on the site of a former train shed at Twelfth and Arch Streets. There are all kinds of meats, ice cream, baked goods, seafood, fresh produce and ethnic foods, as well as fresh produce, groceries, books, and even clothing, in what can only be described as a giant food mall. The wonderful sights and smells assault your senses from the moment you open the door and don't let up until you leave.
We knew exactly what we wanted, but while waiting for our friends, Trish and John, we decided to sample as much as we could. We tried fresh curry chicken, maple sugar cured ham slices, spicy Thai beef, some fresh Pennsylvania Dutch roast beef and homemade peanut butter and jelly. This was one place that we could have sampled a little of everything and been happy, but we were on a mission to have a Dinic's Roast Pork sandwich.
Tommy Dinic's is a fourth generation, family owned eatery in the Reading Terminal Market. The family business started as a butcher shop in South Philadelphia by Italian immigrant Gaetano Nicolosi and his sons. By the 1950's Gaetano had passed the business on to the boys, which had become famous throughout the neighborhood for its roast beef and roast pork sandwiches. In the 1970's two of the grandsons, Tommy and Franky, started the sandwich shop at Oregon and Tenth Streets, until they split in the 1980's. Tommy relocated to the Reading Terminal Market and Franky moved to Tenth and Reed Streets. Today the Dinic's in the market is the last of the family owned business and their roast pork sandwich was just voted "Best Sandwich in America" after an exhaustive search by Adam Richman of the "Travel Channel."
We got in line and about five minutes later Trish and John showed up. Trish is originally from our town of Ramsey, but relocated to Philly and now lives and works there, John is her significant other and he is from the Philly area. The line was long but moved quickly, and we were about two minutes from the register when seats at the counter opened up. Needless to say we took them and John wandered off to find himself a cheesesteak pretzel.
We had been told about this sandwich a while ago by a good friend of mine, and former Philly resident, Joe Thomas. "Uncle Joe" had said to Ryan that this slice of heaven on a roll was a must and that we had to do it the traditional way. Sliced roast pork, extra sharp provolone, topped with broccoli rabe and just a bit of pork gravy over everything. You can order the sandwich with spinach, or peppers, but Joe was insistent that it had to be the rabe. So that's what I ordered for Ryan and I to split.
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| Dinic's Famous Roast Pork |
I couldn't disagree with him. While the half sandwich was about six inches large, it was overstuffed with pork, cheese and the broccoli.
"Is it too big?" I half jokingly asked him.
"Are you kidding? I'm so hungry, I might be eating yours", he laughed.
I didn't laugh at all since I knew he was capable of doing just what he promised. I dug in immediately.
The sandwich was better than even Joe could describe it. The bun is warm and soft and the pork is sliced, but not too thin, and covered in its own juices. The extra sharp provolone adds a smokey, sharp biting flavor that helps tone down the natural bitterness of the broccoli rabe. The extra gravy over the top was just enough to help melt the cheese in some places and keep it firm in others, so you never know if you're going to get a gooey bite or a "solid" one. Joe, I don't admit this often, but I must this time. You were right and I was wrong. The broccoli rabe was the perfect topping for this sandwich and should never be substituted.
I finished my portion just in time. I looked over at Ryan who had just polished off his half and was looking very annoyed that I had finished mine.
"Well?" I inquired.
"That was fantastic. What else do they have in this place? I think it's time for dessert", he said, while looking around for his next food conquest.
I paid the bill and Trish took us to another corner of the market for dessert.
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| Ryan's First Whoopie Pie Was a Hit |
"That was great. Can we order a dozen to take home?" he asked while finishing off the last bite.
"No, and don't talk with your mouth full", I told him.
"I'm in the mood for some ice cream", Trish announced.
"YEAH!!!" came the response from down and to my left.
"Haven't you had enough?" I asked in disbelief.
The look I got told me all I needed to know.
We walked to Bassets Ice Cream at the front of the market, for what were were told was world class ice cream. Trish ordered a mocha cup and Ryan, after giving me his best puppy dog eyes, got a two scoop cup of cookies and cream. Now I have seen big scoops before, but I was in no way prepared for what they considered a scoop. Ryan's eyes rolled back in his head and his smile was as wide as the grand canyon. After insisting on a bite I was hooked, This might just have been the best ice cream that I have ever eaten. Unfortunately, our lunch break had come to an end. John and Trish walked us outside and we said goodbye, but not until after I made her promise to come "home" soon and visit.
"The next time we come down here that place is a must", Ryan insisted.
"You think?" I asked, half kidding.
"Where to now" he wanted to know.
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| Ryan, Trish and I |
"OK, sounds good to me. What are we eating at the ballpark?" he wondered, not exactly to himself.
"Didn't you have enough?" I asked, wide eyed.
"Just wondering. Let's go," he said with a smile.
The Betsy Ross House is located a fifteen minute walk from the Reading Terminal Market on Arch Street. While historians debate whether she did, or did not, sew the flag for the Continental Army, her house is most certainly a popular attraction. You can take a tour which shows that Ms. Ross made her living as a furniture upholsterer and see her workshop, bedroom, kitchen as well as many family artifacts. The lady of the house is laid to rest in the courtyard beneath her favorite trees.
After visiting Franklin's grave we headed back to Independence Hall.
"Do you want to take the tour and see where the Declaration was signed?" I asked.
"Sure, if there's time", was Ryan's response.
Unfortunately there wasn't. You can view Independence Hall for free, but must present tickets to take the timed tour. The tickets can be purchased at the visitors' center and the earlier you get there, the better chance you have to pick your tour time.
Even though we couldn't take the tour, we were able to walk around the outside of the building. Luckily, a friendly tour guide took pity on Ryan, who really wanted to go in, and gave him a verbal tour and free roam of the closed off courtyard.
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| Independence Hall From The Front |
As we walked off to take pictures, I asked him if this was a place he'd like to tour over a whole weekend.
"Could we?", he implored.
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| Independence Hall From The Back |
"Sounds like Boston was the start and Philadelphia was next in line for U.S. History during the Revolution.", he decided.
"Pretty much something like that", I told him.
"We should spend a weekend in Boston doing all the historical stuff and then spend the next weekend down here taking the next step. Can we?" he wanted to know.
"Definitely something to consider", I said, knowing full well we would.
Anytime I can do a walking tour of American History, I'll do it and the fact that Ryan shares my love makes it even more enjoyable.
"Come on, we can walk to the car and head over to the stadium, or we can go to the Springsteen exhibit at the National Constitution Center. Your choice", I told him.
"I don't need to see Bruce's jacket, notebooks or anything like that. I'm not a sniffer", he said laughing.
"OK, let's go see some baseball", I told him as we turned the corner and headed to the car.
Early Phillies' History in The Baker Bowl
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| The Baker Bowl |
The dimensions of the park were; 341 feet to Left Field , 408 to Center, 300 to Right-Center and 280 to Right. It was the right field dimensions that were most notable to The Baker Bowl, due to the configuration of the wall. Boston's Green Monster would eventually stand 37 feet and even that was smaller than the one in the Baker Bowl. Though the Right Field fence was only 280 feet from home plate, the wall stood about 60 feet high and included a wire screen on top. The park was reconfigured in 1895 to add more seats and became the first sports stadium to have a cantilevered design.
With the advent of the American League in 1901, the Phillies lost some of their better players to the cross town team, the Athletics (A's). In the first decade and a half of the new century the Phillies fared poorly, usually finishing in the lower portion of the league. To add insult to injury, in 1903 a portion of The Baker Bowl collapsed, killing 12 people and injuring scores more.
The Phillies won their first pennant in 1915, behind the pitching of Grover Cleveland Alexander and the bat of Gavvy Cravath, who led the N.L. with 24 home runs. The team, however, was beaten in the World Series that year by the Boston Red Sox, four games to one. Pitching star Alexander was gone two years later as owner William Baker refused to grant him a raise and the decline of the ball club was immediate. Between 1918 and 1948, the Phillies had only one season with a winning record (1932), finished next to last seven times, last 17 times and higher than sixth only twice.
In 1930, owner William Baker passed away and left the team to his wife and his secretary, Mae Mallen. Mallen married shoe dealer Gerald Nugent, who eventually became team president, and when Baker's widow died two years later, Nugent retained full control over the team. Nugent badly wanted to build a winning ball club, but finances kept him from being able to do so. The main problem was the cost of operating The Baker Bowl, which was continually in a state of disrepair because of those costs. In fact, things got so bad at times that a flock of sheep was used to keep the grass at a reasonable length and in 1926 the right field grandstand collapsed, which forced the team to play the 1927 season at Shibe park, the home of the A's.
By the late 1930's, Nugent was trying to move the team permanently to Shibe Park. However, the owner of The Baker Bowl steadfastly refused to let the Phillies out of their lease, until the city threatened to condemn the ballpark. So in 1939, the team moved five blocks west, where they would spend the next 31 years.
Shibe Park Era
Built in 1909 by Athletics' owner Benjamin Shibe, in the area of Lehigh Avenue, 20th Street, Somerset Street and 21st Street, Shibe Park was baseball's first steel and concrete stadium. The most notable feature was the exterior tower in the southwest corner. The upper floors were used for the team's front office, while the dome structure on the top was for A's manager of baseball operations, Connie Mack. From the outside, the edifice looked like a church and writer David M. Jordan once wrote that it "...initiated in the golden age of ballparks..."
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| Shibe Park |
The dimensions of the ballpark changed four times over the course of its lifetime (1909, 1925, 1950 and 1968), but at its heyday in 1950, the walls stood at 334 feet to left, 420 to left-center, 447 to center, 405 to right center and 329 to right. The Phillies' famous center fielder Richie Ashburn once said of Shibe Park; "...It looked like a ballpark. It smelled like a ballpark. It had a feeling and a heartbeat, a personality that was all baseball..." It would be here that the Phillies would make their new home.
By 1941 the Phillies were epically bad, in fact they finished that season with a 43-111 record and Nugent was going broke. By 1943 he could not find a buyer for the team and was forced to sell it back to the league. They in turn, sold the ball club to a lumber broker named William Cox. Cox not only wanted to build a winning organization, but he had the financial resources to do so and immediately poured his money into the team, the park and the farm system which saw immediate results. By the end of 1943, the Phillies had climbed out of the National League basement for the first time in five years.
Unfortunately, Cox would not last. He was a very hands on owner, which drove manager Bucky Harris crazy. When Harris objected to Cox's constant interference, the owner fired him. Harris was so infuriated that he told the Philadelphia press that Cox was known to make wagers on the outcome of his team's game, which caught the attention of Commissioner Landis. Cox admitted to the charges, though he claimed he did not know it was against the rules of the game. This made no difference to Landis, who banned him from baseball for life. Cox eventually sold the Phillies to Robert Carpenter, an heir to the DuPont fortune, who turned control of the team over to his son, Robert Jr.
The Carpenters, like Cox, had the financial wherewith all to invest in the future of the team and things were on the rise by 1949, when the Phillies finished third in the league. The strong core of young players, led by pitcher Robin Roberts and center fielder Richie Ashburn, became known as "The Whiz Kids" and won Philadelphia its first pennant in 35 years in 1950. George Sisler's dramatic three run homer, against the Dodgers in the last game of the season, sent the Phils to their first World Series since 1915.
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| The 1950 Phillies: AKA "The Whiz Kids" |
Though the city was electrified by the Phillies run to the World Series, once they were there they were swept by the New York Yankees. The first first three games were decided by one run and the Yanks took Game Four 5-2.
Though the Phillies would remain competitive for the first half of the 1950's, they would become a middle of the pack team by the later years of the decade. In 1953 Shibe Park was renamed Connie Mack Stadium, though that would not keep the A's in Philadelphia. In 1954, they moved to Kansas City and left the Phillies as the sole baseball team in the "City of Brotherly Love".
The Phils would return to respectability during the 1962 and 1963 seasons and held a six and a half game lead in the National League, with ten game to play, in 1964 before the roof fell in. The Phillies went on a ten game losing streak and finished tied for second with the Reds, one game behind the Cardinals. This disaster became known as "The Phold" and is one of the worst collapses in sports history.
Veterans Stadium and a First World Championship
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| Veterans Stadium |
The 1970's were easily the best decade the Phillies had, until then. Though it started slow, with three sixth place and one fifth place finishes, it would also contain three division titles (1976-1978) and set the table for the club's first World Series Championship in 1980. During this decade players such as; Mike Schmidt, Steve Carlton, Greg Luzinski, Larry Bowa, Tug McGraw and Bob Boone, became famous around baseball. In 1979 the Phils acquired Pete Rose, who would prove to be the final piece to their long awaited championship.
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| 1980 World Champions |
The Phillies remained a strong team for the first half of the 1980's. They made the playoffs in the strike shortened season of 1981, but lost to Montreal and then returned to the World Series in 1983, where they were beaten by the Baltimore Orioles in five games. The next nine years were mostly forgetful, as the Phillies began a slow decent which ended with a basement finish in the 1992 season. That, however, would change the very next year.
In 1993, the Phils were led by John Kruk, Lenny Dykstra, Darren Daulton, Mitch Williams, Curt Schilling and a host of others. Their lunch pail work ethic, unkempt "dirty" look and ability to not take themselves seriously, endeared them to the fans as much as their 97-65, first place National League East finish did. In the playoffs, Philadelphia knocked off the twice defending N.L. Champion Atlanta Braves, four games to two and faced off against the defending World Series Champion Toronto Blue Jays. Philadelphia went down in a hard fought six game series, when Toronto's Joe Carter hit a Series ending three-run, walk-off home run, against Mitch "Wild Thing" Williams in the bottom of the ninth inning of Game Six.
The 1994 season was lost to the players strike, and the ramifications were felt on the field and in the stands for almost a decade. One big problem for the Phils was the division realignment that saw the powerhouse Atlanta Braves move into the N.L. East and win the title every year from 1995-2006. The Phillies did have some exceptional talent, Curt Schilling, Bobby Abreau, Randy Wolf and Scott Rolen, but the Braves were just too much to overcome in any of those years. However, the seeds of the next Championship (Ryan Howard, Chase Utley, Cole Hamels and Jimmy Rollins) were drafted and began to come of age during these years.
A New Ballpark and Another World Championship
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| Citizens Bank Park At Batting Practice |
In 2004, the Phillies moved into their new home, Citizens Bank Park, which is part of the South Philadelphia Sports Complex and also houses Lincoln Financial Field for the Eagles and the Wells Fargo Center for the Flyers.
The request for a new homes was made in 1999, from both the Philadelphia and Pittsburgh football and baseball teams, and when the Pirates threatened to move out of Pittsburgh, the funding was approved for all four teams. Pittsburgh moved quickly to build new facilities for their teams, but Philadelphia took a little longer.
The Phils, at first, wanted a downtown stadium like Cincinnati, Baltimore and Denver had, and sites in Center City were proposed. However, in the end the South Philadelphia Sports Complex was agreed upon and in June of 2001, ground was broken on the new stadium. Naming rights were sold to Citizens Bank, for twenty five years in June of 2003 and in April of 2004 the park opened its doors for its first game. On that day, the Reds defeated the Phillies 4-1, with Bobby Abreau getting the first hit, a solo HR, for the home team.
In the years since, the park has hosted the World Series (2008 and 2009), concerts, such as Jimmy Buffet and The Coral Reefer Band, Billy Joel and Elton John and many others, as well as international soccer games and an outdoor N.H.L. game in 2012. Today, Citizens Bank Park is considered to be a model of what ballparks of the Twenty-First Century should be built like.
A new ball park, a new manager Charlie Manuel and the new home grown players brought high hopes to the fan base. The team grew together each year and made further strides that culminated in back to back trips to the World Series in 2008 and 2009.
The request for a new homes was made in 1999, from both the Philadelphia and Pittsburgh football and baseball teams, and when the Pirates threatened to move out of Pittsburgh, the funding was approved for all four teams. Pittsburgh moved quickly to build new facilities for their teams, but Philadelphia took a little longer.
The Phils, at first, wanted a downtown stadium like Cincinnati, Baltimore and Denver had, and sites in Center City were proposed. However, in the end the South Philadelphia Sports Complex was agreed upon and in June of 2001, ground was broken on the new stadium. Naming rights were sold to Citizens Bank, for twenty five years in June of 2003 and in April of 2004 the park opened its doors for its first game. On that day, the Reds defeated the Phillies 4-1, with Bobby Abreau getting the first hit, a solo HR, for the home team.
In the years since, the park has hosted the World Series (2008 and 2009), concerts, such as Jimmy Buffet and The Coral Reefer Band, Billy Joel and Elton John and many others, as well as international soccer games and an outdoor N.H.L. game in 2012. Today, Citizens Bank Park is considered to be a model of what ballparks of the Twenty-First Century should be built like.
A new ball park, a new manager Charlie Manuel and the new home grown players brought high hopes to the fan base. The team grew together each year and made further strides that culminated in back to back trips to the World Series in 2008 and 2009.
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| 2008 World Series Champions |
As defending World Champions, the Phillies took the National League East for the third straight year and then defeated the Rockies in the Division Series and the Dodgers (again) in the N.L.C.S. to return to the World Series, this time against the New York Yankees. Though the Phillies were favored to take the Series, even wrestling home field advantage from the Yankees with a Game One victory in Yankee Stadium, they could not stop the onslaught of Yankees' hitting and base running and fell to New York in six games.
In 2010 and 2011, the Phillies would win the N.L. East for a fourth and fifth consecutive year, though they would be eliminated before getting to the World Series. In 2010 they lost to the eventual World Series Champion San Francisco Giants in the N.L.C.S., and in 2011 they fell again to the future World Series Champion, St Louis Cardinals, this time in the N.L.D.S.
Starting Lineup:
Jim Kulhawy
Ryan Kulhawy
Kevin Brooks
Ewan Brooks
The drive from Philadelphia's Historic District to Citizens Bank Park took about 15 minutes and we arrived about three and a half hours before game time. Now that we have a few trips under our belt, we have a routine that we like to stick to. We arrive before the gates open, walk around the outside of the park, taking pictures of the stadium and see if the team store is open. If it is, we get that night's program and Ryan's home team hat (provided we haven't been able to find it some place in the home team's city earlier in the day). We are finding it's better to get our things and bring them back to the car so we don't have to lug them around the park all night.
"I can't believe I am going to buy a Phillies' hat", Ryan muttered.
"Who's going to buy it?", I asked, laughing.
"Not the point", he told me.
"I wouldn't think a Phillies' hat would bother you so much, now that you have a Boston one", I joked.
"I'm not happy about that either", was his response.
"C'mon, let's walk around and take some pictures, then we'll hit the team store and wait for Kevin and Ewan to get here.", I said.
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| Connie Mack |
"Who's that", Ryan asked, immediately interested.
"That's Connie Mack", I told him. "He was the manager for the Philadelphia A's and holds the record for most managerial wins, with 3731."
"He must have won a lot of World Series", Ryan said shaking his head.
"Not really. I think it was five total, but he managed into his 80's", I estimated.
The statue was created after Mack passed away in 1956. It was placed in a park, outside Shibe Park (Connie Mack Stadium), then moved to Veterans Stadium and finally to Citizens Bank park in 2004.
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| Mike Schmidt Statue |
"You think he was the best there ever was at third?", Ryan asked.
"I think so", I told him. "I can't think of anyone I'd rather have. He's won a World Championship, was a World Series MVP, a three time N.L. MVP, hit over 500 home runs, won about 10 gold gloves and was at least a ten time all star. I'm pretty sure he led the N.L. in home runs quite a few times."
"Yeah, he was pretty good", Ryan said eyes widening.
We continued walking around the outside of the park, stopping to take pictures at a few places. At the First Base Gate, we came across a statue of Robin Roberts.
"Who is this?", Ryan wondered aloud.
"Robin Roberts was one of the best Phillies' pitchers ever", I reported back.
"How good was he", Ryan asked.
"He almost won 300 games, had about 2,300 strikeouts and went to the All Star Game a handful of times."
"Did he ever win a World Series?, Ryan wanted to know.
"Nope, Lost to the Yankees in 1950", I said.
At that he smiled and started walking further on up the sidewalk.
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| "Lefty" |
"It's Steve Carlton and yes, he was good.", I said, getting in the answer to the question I knew was coming.
"How good?", he wanted to know.
"Steve Carlton may have been the best Phillies pitcher there ever was", I reported back.
"You said that about Roberts", Ryan said, looking back and shaking his head.
"No", I said Roberts was one of the best Phillies pitchers", I corrected.
"Well, how good was this guy?", he wanted to know.
"Carlton, is another Hall of Famer. He won about 330 games, had over 4,000 strikeouts and pitched for almost 25 years", I told him.
"All for the Phillies", Ryan asked, amazed.
"No. He started with the Cards, was traded to the Phils and I remember him pitching for the Giants, Twins, White Sox and someone else", I said, straining to remember. "He won a World Series as a Cardinal and a Phillie, won four Cy young Awards and was an all star probably about ten times."
"OK, he's good too", he replied, as if he was giving his allowance for the statue to be there.
After making our way completely around the ballpark, we headed into the team store and bought the evening's program/scorecard and then headed back to the car.
"How long til they get here", Ryan wanted to know.
"Should be a little bit. There was traffic", I said.
"Do you think we have enough soda, iced tea and beer for everyone", he fretted.
"You helped me pack the cooler, you know what we have", I reminded him.
"Good, traffic stinks and I want to make sure there is something for them to drink and nibble on", he said, sounding relieved.
"You're a good man, Charlie Brown", I told him, rumpling his hair.
"Yeah, I know", was the response I got as we got back to the car to wait.
Kevin and Ewan pulled up about 20 minutes later and the four of us relaxed with cookies, soda, iced tea and a few beers. Kevin is the husband of one of my oldest friends, and a fun guy to hang around with. He knows more about beers than most any other human I know, mostly because it's what he does for a living, and he's a big Yankees' fan as well. Ewan is his nine year old son and let me just say he's a pistol. He was excited to hang out at the ballpark with "the guys" and was anxious to go to the team store, despite the fact he's not a Phillies' fan. No one could figure why he was so desperate to go to the store, but we walked over and found the place was closed from the outside of the park at this time. We would have to go in through the stadium once we got in
.
.
After taking a few pictures of the four of us, we headed towards the gate and right away, as if on cue, Ryan announced.
"TIME TO EAT CHEESESTEAKS"
"You know the drill", I told him, "We walk around first, and eat second."
"Fine", he said, unhappily.
"Oh, and cheesesteaks will be later in the evening", I said, adding to his misery.
"Then what's first?", he asked, worrying he wasn't going to get fed.
"You'll see, soon enough", I laughed as we walked inside.
The earliest you can get into Citizens Bank Park is two and a half hours before game time and that is only through the Left Field Gate. As you walk in and look up, you will see the Phillies' starting lineup, projected with ten foot tall, five foot wide, baseball cards. The kids loved it, Ryan of course had to ask the gentleman scanning the tickets if they had a Jeter one that he could buy. The potential for our first issue arose when the usher jokingly asked why would anyone want something like that. Before Ryan could respond, I clamped my hand over the little troublemaker's mouth and escorted him inside.
"Don't start trouble", I said, laughing at him.
"I was serious", he whined. That would look great in our playroom."
"Then ask the next time we go to a home game."
"Deal", he said, happy again.
Two and a half hours before game time, the only place you are allowed to roam inside the park is Ashburn Alley. This area is behind center field and is named for Phillies' Hall of Fame outfielder Richie Ashburn, who played for the club from 1948-1959 and then was a Phils broadcaster from 1963 until he died in 1997. The name Ashburn Alley came from the area down the third base line in Shibe Park, where Ashburn famously laid down many a bunt that hugged the line and stayed fair. A life sized statue memorializes Ashburn directly behind center field.
The main features inside Ashburn Alley are the Phillies' Memory Lane, Wall of Fame and All Star Walk. Memory Lane is a history of Phillies baseball, from inception until 1993 and does a good job in telling the teams' story through photographs. The All Star Walk, is a tribute to every Phillie player that has participated in the M.L.B. All Star game, since it began in 1933. The Wall of Fame is the Phillies version of Yankee Stadium's Monument Park. It is a collection of bronze plaques, set upon the brick wall, immortalizing the great players throughout Philadelphia baseball history. Some of its members include; Robin Roberts, Connie Mack, Mickey Cochrane, Richie Ashburn, Jimmie Foxx, Lefty Grove, Grover Cleveland Aexander, Steve Carlton, Mike Schmidt, Tug McGraw, Bob Boone, John Kruck, Greg Luzinski, and quite a few others. The setting is classy and the plaques are reminiscent of the ones you would find in Cooperstown. As fate would have it, there would be and induction ceremony before our game, for Mike Lieberthal.Another fan favorite feature inside Ashburn Alley are the "exposed" bullpens, which are located in the certer field area and are bi-leveled. The Phils have the lower pen, while the away team has the upper. Fans are allowed to heckle as long as they don't get personal, or vulgar.
There are also games, above the right field corner, where children can be entertained, win prizes and blow off steam before heading to their seats for the game. Some of the games include a "wheel of baseball fortune, a run the bases with the Phanatic (the team's long standing mascot), a pitching target game and a video trivia game. Of course, this is what caught Ryan and Ewan's eyes right away.
"Daddy, can we go play while you and Kevin have a beer and sit down?", Ryan inquired.
"I don't really want a beer right now", I teased him.
"Are you feeling OK?", he shot right back.
"I thought you were hungry", I said.
"Food first, games later?", he pleaded.
"Absolutely", I told him. "I know just where we're going."
Concessions:
There is plenty of great food all over Citizen's Bank Park. In fact, in 2007 the park won an award for best ballpark food in the country. In Ashburn Alley alone, there is Harry the K's Bar and Grille, which serves all sorts of finger food and sandwiches, Season's Pizza, Campo's Cheesesteaks, Tony Luke's Sandwich Shop and Planet Hoagie. Throughout the rest of the park there is plenty more available for the hungry baseball fan. The South Philadelphia Market stands, which are located all around the park, offer every thing from trail mix, to veggie dogs, Shibe Park Eatery has traditional ballpark fare, such as peanuts, popcorn, cotton candy and pretzels, as well as Tastykakes, waffle cones and donuts. If it's desserts you crave, the Turkey Hill Frozen Treats stand offers many different ice cream variations and a funnel cake stand offers a wide variety of fried dough. If you are a connoisseur of fine beers, there are Brewerytown stands throughout the park, selling some of Philly's fines craft beers and the Baker Bowl Bar which has a nice selection of premium beers and liquors. All told, Citizens Bank Park offers a wide variety of very good choices for every kind of appetite. However, if you are coming to see a ballgame in Philadelphia, there is one place to eat that is a must.
As we walked further down Ashburn Alley, we were overtaken by an aroma that is not usually associated with a ball park...barbecued meats, which were being carried forth in the smoky air.
"What's that", Ryan asked licking his lips.
"That's dinner", I told him.
"What is it?, It smells great."
"Bulls BBQ", I said.
"Hurry up, I'm hungry", was the over the shoulder response I got as he took off at full speed.
"I thought you wanted cheeseteaks", I kidded him.
"That's dessert", he said seriously.
For those who don't know, Bull's BBQ is owned and operated by former Phillie World Series Champion, Greg Luzinski. Known during his playing days as "The Bull", Luzinski oversees the eatery from his perch off to the side of the register. On some days, he might take your order, plate it himself and then ring you up. He always has time for the fans and will sign anything offered and enjoys the request for pictures and conversation. Ryan thought it was great that he got to meet another former ballplayer. He signed our stubs, took a picture and enjoyed some playful banter with the kids, before we decided to sit down and eat.
Bulls offers up many different delights, such as The Sampler (three half orders of any of their offerings), ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, kielbasa and chicken as well as a host of sides dishes, like mac and cheese and baked beans. But we were in the mood for the pit beef barbecue sandwich, and it didn't disappoint.
This monstrosity is a half pound of beef, pit cooked and simmered in Bulls' homemade sauce. It's served on a warmed kaiser roll and is more than enough to split between two people. Kevin decided to try the kielbasa, which is served on a roll and is large enough for three. As we sat down, Ryan ripped into the sandwich and promptly decided it needed more sauce. The beef was so tender it fell apart with the first bite and we were immediately overtaken by the hickory smoked flavor and the tangyness of the sauce.
"Good choice for an appetizer", Ryan said, wiping sauce off the corner of his mouth.
"I thought you'd like that", I told him smiling.
"But, we're still getting cheesesteaks as well. right?", he wondered.
"Absolutely", I assured him.
"Just checking", he said, relieved.
With that, he and Ewan went off to play in the carnival-like atmosphere that's geared for the kids in that section of the stadium, while Kevin and I sat down to talk and finish off our beers.
A half an hour later, we called the kids back, so we could walk around and see the rest of the park. They came back reluctantly and we soon saw why. The boys were in the process of winning; water bottles, miniature bats, backpacks and other trinkets.
The rest of Citizens Bank Park opens its gates an hour and a half before first pitch and we wanted to see everything available. There were team stores, souvenir kiosks and memorabilia stands. Now, I am not usually one for the mementos, but the Phillies had an amazing display of baseball items, not just Philadelphia ones. There were books, magazines, dvd's and assorted other items representing most M.L.B. teams. It was an impressive array, to say the least. Though the most impressive sights were of the ballpark itself.
As we walked downstairs, behind home plate, the view was fantastic. The dimensions around the park are as follows; 329 down the left field line, 374 to the left field power alley, "The Angle" (the area from left center to dead center field) runs from 409 feet to 381 to 387, dead center field is 401 feet from home plate, while the right field power alley drops to 369 feet and right field tapers off to 330. Above the left field wall, there is a gigantic scoreboard, topped with a script "Phillies" and over the right center field wall there is an enormous replica of the Liberty Bell that rocks back and forth and lights up when a Phillie homers. There is nothing over dead center field, which allows for an open feel to the whole outfield.
After walking around and taking in the sights, sounds and smells, we headed upstairs to our seats. Before going to our location the boys wanted a soda and there was time, so we stopped in the High and Inside Pub, for a few libations. We stayed for about 30 minutes and were introduced to Regina, who tends bar and is as big a baseball fan as there is. She knows the history of the game and is a pleasure to talk to. She even showed us pictures of when she jumped in Babe Ruth's bed, in his original house in Baltimore.
After about thirty minutes, we headed to our seats in order to watch the Phillies' Wall of Fame induction ceremony. Tonight, Mike Leiberthal, the former catcher, was having his plaque hung in Ashburn Alley, alongside the other players honored there. After a brief ceremony, featuring Mike Schmidt, Bob Boone, Steve Carlton, John Kruk and others, there was a video tribute that spanned Leiberthal's years from little league to retirement, a speech from the newest inductee and a ride around the park to wave to the fans. It was now time to play ball.
"Halladay, right?", Ryan asked about tonight's starter for Philly.
The sandwich is twelve inches long and stuffed with steak, onions and melted cheese. It looked like something that could have fed all four of us, had we been hungry. Thankfully we were't, because Ryan broke into it before I could turn around.
As we settled in to watch the bottom of the eighth, Ryan and Ewan wandered to the front of the viewing area where they could watch and Ryan could eat. Right off the bat, the Cardinals were in trouble. They had removed Lohse for Browning and the Phils pounced immediately. Jimmy Rollins singled to left, and promptly was balked to second. Juan Pierre then sacrificed him to third, and up came fan favorite Chase Utley. The Phillies' second baseman looked at a first pitch strike, then watched a ball float off the plate. The third pitch came in, and went out just as quickly. Utley slammed a 432 foot, two run homer to center field and the Phils had a 3-1 lead. The park erupted as Utley circled the bases to the roar of the hometown crowd. Even Ryan started jumping up and down and high fiving the Phillies' fans around him.
Final Score:
Phillies 3, Cardinals 1
Halliday (W) 6-6
Papelbon (S) 25
Browning (L) 0-1
As we walked further down Ashburn Alley, we were overtaken by an aroma that is not usually associated with a ball park...barbecued meats, which were being carried forth in the smoky air."What's that", Ryan asked licking his lips.
"That's dinner", I told him.
"What is it?, It smells great."
"Bulls BBQ", I said.
"Hurry up, I'm hungry", was the over the shoulder response I got as he took off at full speed.
"I thought you wanted cheeseteaks", I kidded him.
"That's dessert", he said seriously.
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| Ewan, Kevin, Ryan, Greg Luzinski and Me |
Bulls offers up many different delights, such as The Sampler (three half orders of any of their offerings), ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, kielbasa and chicken as well as a host of sides dishes, like mac and cheese and baked beans. But we were in the mood for the pit beef barbecue sandwich, and it didn't disappoint.
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| Ryan's Appetizer |
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| Pit Beef BBQ Sandwich |
"Good choice for an appetizer", Ryan said, wiping sauce off the corner of his mouth.
"I thought you'd like that", I told him smiling.
"But, we're still getting cheesesteaks as well. right?", he wondered.
"Absolutely", I assured him.
"Just checking", he said, relieved.
With that, he and Ewan went off to play in the carnival-like atmosphere that's geared for the kids in that section of the stadium, while Kevin and I sat down to talk and finish off our beers.
A half an hour later, we called the kids back, so we could walk around and see the rest of the park. They came back reluctantly and we soon saw why. The boys were in the process of winning; water bottles, miniature bats, backpacks and other trinkets.
The rest of Citizens Bank Park opens its gates an hour and a half before first pitch and we wanted to see everything available. There were team stores, souvenir kiosks and memorabilia stands. Now, I am not usually one for the mementos, but the Phillies had an amazing display of baseball items, not just Philadelphia ones. There were books, magazines, dvd's and assorted other items representing most M.L.B. teams. It was an impressive array, to say the least. Though the most impressive sights were of the ballpark itself.
As we walked downstairs, behind home plate, the view was fantastic. The dimensions around the park are as follows; 329 down the left field line, 374 to the left field power alley, "The Angle" (the area from left center to dead center field) runs from 409 feet to 381 to 387, dead center field is 401 feet from home plate, while the right field power alley drops to 369 feet and right field tapers off to 330. Above the left field wall, there is a gigantic scoreboard, topped with a script "Phillies" and over the right center field wall there is an enormous replica of the Liberty Bell that rocks back and forth and lights up when a Phillie homers. There is nothing over dead center field, which allows for an open feel to the whole outfield.
After about thirty minutes, we headed to our seats in order to watch the Phillies' Wall of Fame induction ceremony. Tonight, Mike Leiberthal, the former catcher, was having his plaque hung in Ashburn Alley, alongside the other players honored there. After a brief ceremony, featuring Mike Schmidt, Bob Boone, Steve Carlton, John Kruk and others, there was a video tribute that spanned Leiberthal's years from little league to retirement, a speech from the newest inductee and a ride around the park to wave to the fans. It was now time to play ball.
The Game
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| "Doc" Halladay |
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| First Pitch |
"Yup and Lohse is going for the Cards", I told him.
"Really?", he asked, smiling. "This should be a good one."
Turning to Ewan, he said "We're in for a great game."
"Why?", asked Ewan, puzzled.
"Why?", asked Ewan, puzzled.
"Halladay's one of the best in baseball and Lohse might be the best in St. Louis this year", he said, proudly showing off his baseball knowledge to his little buddy.
"What do you think the score will be", Ewan asked Ryan.
"2-1, or 3-2, Ryan responded" "I'm betting on a pitching duel and I think the Phillies win."
Ewan scrunched his nose, not really liking that prognosis. Kevin and I laughed and settled in to watch the game.
The first inning went quickly as both teams went down 1-2-3, and the pitchers looked as good as advertised, throwing less than twelve pitches each.
The Cards drew first blood in the second, when Carlos Beltran homered to make it 1-0. Halladay then settled back down and got Freese, Molina and Descalso in order. In the bottom of the second, the Phillies tied the game as Ryan Howard doubled to left and Brown singled him in right away. Lohse then got Schierholtz to foul out to third and struck out Kratz for the second out of the inning. After a walk to Frandsen, Lohse got out of his own jam by getting Halladay to strike out swinging,which ended the inning.
The rest of the game went quickly, as each pitcher settled into a grove and only four players reached base, between the two teams, through the top of the eighth. For the Cardinals; Jay had a single in the third and Molina was hit by a pitch in the fifth. The Phils didn't fare much better against Lohse as Frandsen had a bunt for a base hit in the fifth and then singled in the bottom of the seventh.
"Ryan, how'd you know it was going to be like this?", Ewan asked somewhere during one of the innings.
"I love to watch baseball and I study the players", I heard him respond.
I had to laugh as the two boys were having a blast and hitting it off so well. A lot of kids might be bored watching a 1-1 pitchers duel, but not these two. They were hanging on each pitch, talking about what was going on and having a blast.
All of a sudden, Ryan suddenly remember something.
"Hey, I need a cheesesteak", he reminded me.
"Hey, I need a cheesesteak", he reminded me.
"You need one?", I asked, laughing at him.
"We can't come to Philly and not get a cheesesteak. Besides, you said I could have one later and it's later."
"Well, we could go to Tony Luke's in Ashburn Alley and get one and watch the rest of the game from there", I told him.
"What are we waiting for? Let's go", he said, getting up heading towards the center field viewing area.
The rest of us got up and followed.
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| The Tony Luke Special |
We got to Tony Luke's, ordered Ryan's sandwich and walked over to the open area on the center field party deck to watch the end of the game. Ryan's eyes were bugging out as he unwrapped his prize. Tony Luke, the owner of the famous eatery, is a South Philadelphia born entrepreneur who opened up his original sandwich shop on Oregon Avenue, and has since opened many more throughout the Philadelphia area, including the one at Citizen's Bank Park. He has been the winner of many awards for his sandwiches, but his most famous by far, is his take on the traditional Philly Cheesesteak.
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| Ryan Never Stops Eating |
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| The Bell After Utley's HR |
"I thought you didn't want to root for the Phillies", I said, while picking him up and swinging him around.
"After everything I ate, I would think I could be an honorary Philadelphian tonight", he told me. "But, I'd put me down, if I were you."
"Why?", I asked, before noticing that he was a little green.
"I think you better give me the rest of that cheesesteak", I told him
He didn't even put up a fight as he gave up the last three inches of sandwich.
"This is all that's left?", I asked, incredulously.
"It was good, but I saved you some", he laughed and went back to watching the game, oblivious to his stomach now.
Howard then stuck out looking, while Brown grounded out to end the inning, and send the Phils to the ninth with a 3-1 lead. The ballpark was going berserk.
"Hey, they're taking out Halladay", Ryan said, unhappily as the bullpen gate opened and the closer took the mound.
"Remember, this is a save situation", I reminded him, knowing full well that he knew, and that he was not going to be happy with what he was about to figure out.
"Wait, that means Papelbon", he said. "Rooting for the Phillies was bad enough, but now I have to root for a former Red Sox player who closes for the Phillies? NOT COOL"
"Well, maybe you can root for him to blow the save and the Phils to win in the bottom of the ninth", I offered.
"That would be OK, I guess", he said.
"Just do it quietly, so you don't annoy anyone", I said, moving in close just to make sure.
Papelbon got the first batter when Jay grounded out to second. Up to the pate strode Craig, who promptly doubled to center. I looked over at Ryan and saw a little fist pump, and smiled. Holiday then made the second out of the inning when he lined to the left fielder, but Beltran kept the rally alive with a two out single. With runners on first and third and two out, the 2011 World Series M.V.P., David Freese, came up as the go ahead run. After watching a first pitch strike, Freese took a ball to even the count at 1-1. Then, the inexplicable happened. Beltran broke from first and was caught stealing as Papelbon threw to the shortstop covering second, for the game's final out. Citizens Bank Park erupted as Ryan and I looked at each other, dumbstruck.
"What the heck did he do that for?", Ryan whined.
"What the heck did he do that for?", Ryan whined.
"I have no idea", I told him. "That might have been one of the dumbest plays I have seen this year."
We were both shaking out heads as the four of us walked to the car.
Final Score:
Phillies 3, Cardinals 1
Halliday (W) 6-6
Papelbon (S) 25
Browning (L) 0-1
Post Game Wrap Up
"Ryan, you were right", Ewan gushed as we walked out the door.
"About what?", Ry asked.
"The low score", Ewan told him
"Well, it made sense. They are both really good pitchers and don't usually give up a lot of runs", Ryan said.
I laughed, listening to the two of them. I was glad Kevin and Ewan could come, and even happier that the little guys had a good time and enjoyed it as much as we did.
As we got to the car, the lot was emptying slowly. We decided to hang back for a few minutes and let the traffic thin out before heading home. I had no desire to sit in the car any longer than it took to drive home. Eventually, it was time to go. We all said goodbye and Ryan and I climbed into the car and slowly headed out of the lot, towards New Jersey.
"How long is it going to take us to get home", Ryan asked.
"About two hours. You ready to sleep?"
"Yeah, but I'll stay up and make sure you stay awake. It's been a long day", he told me.
"I'll be fine", I assured him. "You sleep if you're tired. Remember, tomorrow we hit Citi Field."
"That's OK, I'll stay up with you. Besides...", he laughed.
"Besides what?", I asked, confused.
"I'm hungry. Can we stop and get a bite at a diner?", he wanted to know.
"Not on you life", I laughed.
" What's the signature food at Citi Field?", he asked.
"Brooklyn Pastrami, with Swiss and spicy mustard on rye."
"Great, I'll be thinking about that all night", he muttered.
I just chuckled, pointed the car towards home and hit the gas.
"About what?", Ry asked.
"The low score", Ewan told him
"Well, it made sense. They are both really good pitchers and don't usually give up a lot of runs", Ryan said.
I laughed, listening to the two of them. I was glad Kevin and Ewan could come, and even happier that the little guys had a good time and enjoyed it as much as we did.
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| Kevin, Ryan, Ewan and I |
"How long is it going to take us to get home", Ryan asked.
"About two hours. You ready to sleep?"
"Yeah, but I'll stay up and make sure you stay awake. It's been a long day", he told me.
"I'll be fine", I assured him. "You sleep if you're tired. Remember, tomorrow we hit Citi Field."
"That's OK, I'll stay up with you. Besides...", he laughed.
"Besides what?", I asked, confused.
"I'm hungry. Can we stop and get a bite at a diner?", he wanted to know.
"Not on you life", I laughed.
" What's the signature food at Citi Field?", he asked.
"Brooklyn Pastrami, with Swiss and spicy mustard on rye."
"Great, I'll be thinking about that all night", he muttered.
I just chuckled, pointed the car towards home and hit the gas.
Next Stop
August 11, 2011
Citi Field
Queens, NY
Atlanta Braves Vs New York Mets
